In this Podcast, the presenters talk about one of my recent videos on how AI tools can be used to augment your photos.
Okay, okay – this isn’t real. I also used AI to make this! But I thought it was so remarkable, I had to share it anyway.
You can see the video they are ‘discussing’ here:
When it comes to photography, the histogram is often considered an essential tool for achieving perfect exposure. However, I believe there’s a common misconception about how to use this tool effectively. In this post, we’ll explore why you might be using the histogram incorrectly and how, I think, it should actually be used to aid your photo editing.
You’ve likely seen the histogram on your camera’s screen or within your editing software like Lightroom. It’s a graph that represents the distribution of light and dark areas in your image. The left side of the histogram shows the darker areas (shadows), while the right side represents the lighter areas (highlights). The middle section is where midtones reside.
For simplicity, let’s consider a black and white image. In this case, the histogram might look like a mountain, with the peak indicating where most of the image data falls in terms of brightness. Many photographers assume that a well-exposed image should have a histogram with a nice, even hump in the middle. But that’s not always the case.
I believe editing RAW images is an essential part of the image creation process, and many people rely on Adobe products like Lightroom and Photoshop, which are often regarded as industry standards. However, on more than one occasion, Adobe’s business policies and terms have frustrated users and some have even decided to cancel their subscriptions, looking for alternative software to edit their photography. In a recent video I gave an overview of five of my own favourite Adobe alternatives for RAW image edting.
(more…)I recently replaced my main vlogging camera (the Sony ZV-1) with the Nikon Z30. The ZV-1 was having issues and I would be able to use all of my Nikon lenses with the Z30. So from now on, it will be the primary video camera for the channel, but before fully transitioning to it, I decided to test its performance as a stills camera with a fun challenge: bird photography. This certainly isn’t the first camera you’d think of for doing bird photography, but I really wanted to see what it was capable of. I paired it with the Nikon 300mm F4 PF lens, along with a 1.4x teleconverter and the FTZ adapter for the Z30 body. My plan was to head out to a local area and see what bird shots I could capture.
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When it comes to travel photography, every gram counts. The last thing you want is to be weighed down by heavy gear while exploring new landscapes and cultures. Careful consideration about the gear you take can be very important. In a recent video I ran through the gear I had packed for a trip to the Norwegian Fjords. In this article I’m going to break that gear down and explain why it’s great for travel photography.